Again the stock springs will allow you to have a more forgiving carb.ĭoug Lofgren is the only guy I know of that can get comparable peak power out of a CV carb similar to an FCR, but he blueprints them. The CV carb with soft springs likes a roll on not a whack open for best performance unless you make the cruising mixture too rich. I wouldn't be the first guy to find that a little rich seems to work with the open airbox on the road, but the EGA on the dyno tells you to lean it off a little.ĭon't get sucked into ruining a nice cruising mixture by over jetting the needle/midrange to make up for no accelerator pump. Go with the biggest main jet you can get away with (a little on the rich side) and moderate needle positions. Some people have had luck with drilling the crap out of the lid. To make jetting easier consider a kit that allows for a full airbox lid chop unless you are prepared to gradually remove material as part of the tuning process. It will never be a flatslide but if you 'ride the carb' correctly they work fine. I am now of the opinion of keeping the air velocity up with a stock (stiffer) spring and letting the stock carb be what it is. Having it rise too quickly will have you wanting for an accelerator pump. A more quickly rising CV piston is not necessarily better. Consider trying it and testing it against the springs in the DJ/FP kits which will be softer and allow the slide to open more quickly. I have frigged around with the stock Mikunis enough to drive you crazy on 900s and have a few observations. I haven't looked into a FP kit for 750s so contacting them is worthwhile in case they have started putting some bigger main jets in their kits. For an open airbox consider the DJ kit for its greater range of main jets to allow for an open airbox. Some like the needle taper of the DJ better. The FP kit is very well made and comes with nice little extras like stainless allen bolts for the carbs, but the DJ kit usually has a a larger range of main jets. A search will reveal comparison charts if you haven't already located them (you probably have). The FP jets are sized as stock Mikuni jets and as you note the DJ jets have their own size/flow rating numbers.

Brad Black or locals like Howie may will chime in with their findings. I have only tuned 900s regarding specific jet sizes. Or a flat out recommendation of what exact jet sizes you'd recommend for my setup, and which brand of course sooo, can someone please tell me exactly which jets and what sizes of them are included in the factory pro jet kit? specifically the CRB-D08-1.1-TI kit.Īlso, please share your opinions on which brand and/or stage you prefer, and why, and which you'd suggest for my setup. I can't however for the life of me find any info on what the Factory Pro jetkit includes. I forgot to write down my current jet sizes last time I had the carbs apart. Stock size is 132.5 from what I've found in my research. stage 2 has DJ sizes of 144 and 148 (~comparable to stock mikuni sizes of 135/138.75.

stage 1 has DJ sizes of 124 and 128 main jets (~comparable to stock mikuni sizes of 116.25/120. I found what the stage 1 and stage 2 DynoJet jet kits have in them, and semi-comparable jet sizes as compared to stock sizes. arrow high-mount cf slip-ons, ported/polished intake runners, slightly cut stock airbox, k&n filter. So I've been reading for 2 hours now, considering a jet kit for my 2000 M750. I'm sure this has been covered before but I can't seem to find anything useful.

Factory pro emulsion tubes